Why Mustang?
Mustang is one of Nepal's last truly remote destinations — a high-altitude Tibetan plateau hidden behind the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs. The road to Lo Manthang, the walled capital of the former Kingdom of Mustang, is one of the most dramatic drives in the world.
Until 1992 the region was closed to outsiders entirely. Even now, foreign visitors need a restricted area permit (RAP) on top of the standard TIMS card. But for those willing to navigate the paperwork, the reward is an otherworldly landscape of ochre cliffs, ancient gompas, and sky that feels a shade darker than anywhere else.
Permits you'll need
Plan at least two weeks ahead for permits. The Mustang RAP costs USD 500 for the first 10 days (USD 50/day after that). You'll also need an Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) permit and a TIMS card.
- Mustang Restricted Area Permit (RAP) — USD 500 / 10 days
- ACAP permit — NPR 3,000
- TIMS card — NPR 2,000 (individual trekker)
- Vehicle permit (arranged at Kagbeni checkpoint)
Road conditions & vehicle choice
The road from Beni to Lo Manthang is unpaved the entire way — a mix of river crossings, loose gravel, and sharp switchbacks above 3,800 m. A Toyota Land Cruiser or Mitsubishi Pajero is the minimum. Don't attempt it in a sedan or standard SUV; high clearance and 4WD low range are non-negotiable.
River crossings at Ghasa and Lete can be impassable during heavy monsoon (July–August). The window is best in spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November).
Day-by-day itinerary
A comfortable 7-day loop from Pokhara gives you time to acclimatise and explore without rushing.
- Day 1 — Pokhara to Beni (2 hrs), overnight
- Day 2 — Beni to Jomsom via Kagbeni (5–6 hrs), permits checked at Kagbeni
- Day 3 — Jomsom to Ghami (4 hrs), explore cave monasteries
- Day 4 — Ghami to Lo Manthang (3 hrs), full day exploring the walled city
- Day 5 — Lo Manthang to Tsarang and back (day trip)
- Day 6 — Lo Manthang to Muktinath (5 hrs), visit the temple
- Day 7 — Muktinath to Pokhara via Beni (7 hrs)
Where to sleep
Accommodation is basic by city standards but comfortable. In Jomsom, Hotel Moonlight and Mustang Holiday Inn are popular with self-drivers. In Lo Manthang, the Old Lo Guesthouse inside the walled city is an experience in itself.
Book ahead in spring and autumn — rooms fill up fast during peak trekking season.
Aarav Shrestha
Road Trip Editor
Writes about self-drive travel, vehicle reviews, and Nepal road conditions for Book Now Nepal.
